The Tabi launched in 1988 and has never stopped. The split-toe boot — drawn from Japanese tabi socks, strange on first look, now one of fashion's most copied design decisions — established the pattern: take something conventional and make it legible in a different way. The blank white label with four stitches. Exposed seams worn on the outside. Numbered sizing replacing conventional labels. Martin Margiela's work from 1988 to 2008 produced a body of work that every quiet luxury label since has worked from. John Galliano's current tenure brings theatrical construction to that same framework. Tabi boots, deconstructivist tailoring, and Galliano-era apparel.

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